Konbu Maki (Kelp Roll) with Dried Kipper / Conger Eel

Konbu Maki (Kelp Roll) with Dried Kipper

For optimal results, we recommend using high-quality kelp sourced from Hokkaido. Prior to use, remove the powdery residue with a scrubbing brush. Should it remain, it may cause the water to become cloudy during boiling, or affect the final outcome. Since the powdery residue is prone to float around, discolors your nails white, it is advisable to conduct this process outside the kitchen.

First, soak dried kipper in the water you get after rinsing the rice. The kipper we use differs in texture, being less rigid than the original ones from the past but firmer than those commonly found in the market these days. The important point in making kipper Kombu Maki is to ensure to harmonize the softness of both the kelp and the kipper when it is completed. While the kelp should be softer than the kipper, it should not be so delicate that it dissolves upon completely softening the kipper.

Secure the rolled kelp using dried gourd strips. Rub the dried gourds with salt and rinse them in water for rehydration. A swift coating of salt across the surface is sufficient. Avoid prolonged soaking, as they will be boiled twice with the rolled kelp. To minimize waste, use the entire dried gourd without cutting. The number of pieces for cutting the roll varies among the restaurants, but typically, we start tying the roll using the dried gourd strip in the middle, holding the ends still, then one at each end and two more in between the knots, totalling in 5 pieces. During tying, always perform two rounds at each point - while the first round can be tightly wound, the second should be slightly looser. If it is too tight, the kelp risks breaking when it expands, and if it is too loose, the stips might come undone during boiling. Ensure the knots are positioned at the top of the roll to prevent it from being crushed due to pressure during cooking.

Once the kipper has softened, roll it with two pieces of kelp. Trim the kelp slightly as it expands in length as it softens. Striking the right balance - not too loose or too tight during rolling is challenging, yet crucial to maintain the kelp’s thickness. After rolling, ensure the seam faces downward.

The subsequent step involves arranging the sliced rolled kelps into the pot. Ensuring adequate space among them is crucial; alternate the stacking direction for each set of three layers. As the rolled kelps are neatly positioned in the pot, it is crucial to maintain visibility of the pot's bottom from all angles. This ensures an even distribution of the broth within the pot during boiling, ensuring both the top and bottom layers contain an equal amount of broth. While the top layer can be filled to a certain extent, there should be space in the bottom and middle layers to accommodate the kelps’ expansion as they swell when boiled in broth. Envision the kelps fully swollen as you place them in the pot, and you’ll understand why stacking more than 4 layers wouldn’t be ideal.

Bring the pot with the kelps to a boil, then replace the water. Initially, lower the heat just before it reaches the boiling point, then let it boil. Unlike conger eel, kipper contains a considerable amount of fat, so repeating this process two or three times is recommended. Towards the end of the boiling process, add sake, soup stock, and Umeboshi (pickled plums). To prevent the kelps overexpanding, apply pressure by placing a lid directly on top of them with a weight. Adjusting the pressure might be challenging - omitting the weight could lead to kelps overexpanding, while simply placing a weight might not be sufficient. The use of a piece of brick as a weight dates back to traditional methods.

The final cooking time may vary based on the condition of the kelp and the softness of the kipper. Just before completion, the taste is already comparable to commercially available kelp rolls preserved with additives. However, as we entirely refrain from using such additives, achieving the desired taste involves slightly thicker preparation to ensure long-lasting quality. Our goal is to maintain a consistent thickness and taste throughout the entire pot, cooking both the bottom and top layers evenly. This meticulous approach begins with considering the final state of the rolls during the gourd tying process, ensuring tightness initially and a looser in the second round, while also allowing space when placing the kelps in the pot. Consequently, the kelps now possess the desired thickness, and the uncut gourds contribute to this achievement.

Kelp Roll with Conger Eel (Anago)

The ingredients for the Kombu Maki (kelp roll) can vary yearly, but as a standard, we use dried kipper due to its long-lasting flavor. Among other options, we incorporate meat or Anago (conger eel) based on the year. The choice of conger eel primarily stems from its richer broth content compared to kipper, which tends to have a more straightforward taste due to its limited broth. This richness makes it appealing even to younger individuals. Additionally, its shorter process - omitting the need for rehydration - makes it easier to work with; we simply split open the conger eel before rolling it with kelp. While the conger eel season usually falls in summer, winter eels are notably fatty. Particularly large conger eels like Matsushima Anago are available during this time. Despite their bony feature, when rolled in kelp, they become tender all the way to the bone.

I’ve prepared two variations of Kombu Maki (kelp roll) - one with kipper, a more challenging in creation, and the other with conger eel. Conger eel is relatively easier to work with for Kombu Maki as it’s pre-cooked and maintains a softer texture. On the other hand, kipper tends to tighten when seasoned, owing to its dried state and resistance to absorbing flavors and broth. Increased cooking time or sugar addition leads to firmer kipper. Meanwhile, the kelp softens with prolonged boiling, requiring careful monitoring.
Each ingredient possesses distinct fibers, affecting their tenderness and the quantity of flavors, such as sugar, they require. The goal is to cook these ingredients until they achieve optimal tenderness and flavors, while ensuring the kelp remains intact and enjoyable. A critical aspect is finding a balance between the dried gourd, kelp, and the ingredients inside, ensuring they all achieve a consistent level of tenderness when fully cooked.
Typically, cooking process for this dish spans about 3 days, but it is crucial not to exceed this timeframe. Extending beyond it alters the dish’s essence, affecting the kelp and ingredients. While seasonings may vary for kipper, conger eel, or meat roll, in Osechi cuisine, taste is not the only consideration - preservation holds an equal importance. Therefore, the quantity of seasoning used significantly influences the dish’s preservation.

1. Remove the powdery residue on high-quality kelp using a scrubbing brush.
   
2. Soak dried kipper in the water used for rinsing the rice.
   
3. Trim the kelp slightly shorter than the kipper.
   
4. Roll the kipper with the kelp, envisioning the kelp’s expected thickness once cooked.
   
5. Rub the dried gourds with salt and rinse in water.
   
6. Minimize waste by using the entire dried gourds to create knots before cutting.
   
7. Tie tightly at first, and then more loosely.
   
8. Place in three layers with space among the rolls.
   
9. While arranging the rolls, envision the seasonings dissolving within and consider their expanded state inside the pot.
   
10. The top layer can be filled to a certain extent, but leave space in the bottom and the middle layers.
    
11. Position a lid directly on top of the kelp with a brick as a weight.
    
12. This is the condition after replacing the boiled water 2-3 times.
    
13. Ensure the seasonings thoroughly dissolve within the ingredients and kelp during cooking.